KH, or carbonate hardness, measures the concentration of carbonate (CO₃²⁻) and bicarbonate (HCO₃⁻) ions in water. These ions act as bases and play a major role in stabilizing pH. Because bicarbonate can both accept and donate hydrogen ions depending on the water’s pH, it acts as a buffer—resisting sudden swings in acidity or alkalinity. That’s why tap water, which often contains both carbonate and bicarbonate, tends to sit above pH 7. These ions are completely harmless to fish, but they do contribute to the “extra stuff” dissolved in your water.
Now, alkalinity is a broader term. It refers to the overall buffering capacity of the water—how well it can resist changes in pH. Carbonates and bicarbonates are the main contributors to alkalinity in most aquariums, which is why KH is often used as a rough estimate. But they’re not the only players. Other compounds, like phosphates and even nitrite, can also contribute to alkalinity without affecting KH directly. So while KH and alkalinity often go hand-in-hand, they’re not the same thing.
Think of KH like a shock absorber for your pH. The higher your KH, the more resistant your water is to sudden pH swings—especially important in stocked tanks where waste and acids build up over time. If your KH is low, your pH can crash unexpectedly, which is stressful (or deadly) for fish and inverts. A stable KH of at least 3–4 dKH is usually enough for most freshwater tanks, while reef tanks tend to need quite a bit more. Testing regularly helps keep surprises at bay.